Magic in Marrakech: Movement, Markets, and Madrasas
By Ashley Winnor
I thought I knew what to expect from Marrakech, but our first full day proved I had only scratched the surface. We began our day early with a briefing from Professor Rabinovitch on the history of the city and its importance in Morocco. Though I knew Jews had lived in Morocco for centuries, I hadn’t realized how deep and complex that history was. Judaism in Morocco predated the spread of Islam and for a long time, Jews were considered to be an indigenous people in Morocco. This helped to put into perspective the rich cultural and architectural legacy that they left behind.
From our riad in the old Medina, we set out into the bustling streets of Marrakech. Our first stop was the Bahia Palace, a late 19th-century palace that had been used by both Moroccan and French officials. Here we learned all about the influence Islam had on French imperialists through the intricate tiling and geometric architectural shapes. The presence of distinctly European fireplaces in such characteristically Islamic looking rooms was jarring. Islamic tiling is meant to be both beautiful and meaningful: the imperfections in the otherwise flawless geometric patterns reflect the belief that only God can be perfect. These tiles aren’t only decorative but also are placed intentionally to protect the walls from humidity. They perfectly blend function with reason, and some might even say they’re “pretty with a purpose” (shout out to the Hunger Games fans).
Next, we visited a synagogue in the Jewish quarter where we learned about the historically vital Jewish community of Marrakech and how it has been drastically reduced. Throughout history, Jews played a key role in Morocco’s development and economy. In the 12th century, the Almohad Empire restricted Jews’ rights, only to later reverse those policies after recognizing their indispensable contributions to society through their trade and artisanal work. At its peak, Morocco was home to around 350,000 Jews, but today the number is closer to 2,000. Nonetheless, traces of their impact remain.
One moment that struck me was visiting the Jewish cemetery, which has been maintained for generations by a Muslim family. That act of stewardship reflects a larger theme I’ve been noticing: the long history of interfaith coexistence and collaboration in Morocco. It’s one thing to learn about it in lectures, but seeing it preserved in real, tangible ways was incredibly moving.
After a quick lunch, we continued on to the El Badi Palace, a ruined palace commissioned in the 16th century by a Saadian dynasty sultan. The sprawling courtyard and massive reflecting pool were breathtaking. The emphasis on symmetry reminded me of the Hassan Tower in Rabat, which our guide described as so symmetrical you could fold it in half like a mirror. This balance and proportion show up again in the Ben Youssef Madrasa, our next stop, which is a former Quarnic school turned museum. Its central courtyard, intricate carvings, and reflecting pool created a sense of peace and reverence. Wandering the old dormitories and narrow hallways gave us a glimpse of the student life that once filled the space.
Our final visit of the day was to the High Atlas Foundation, which works to support the Amazigh villages in the Atlas Mountains, where we’ll be heading tomorrow. To help these villages, the Atlas foundation provides programs to determine what the community wants and needs and then connects them with people who can help their dreams become a reality. One story that stood out was how the land surrounding Amazigh villages, often historically sacred to Jews, had been sold or gifted by Moroccan Jews to support agricultural development for these villages. The Jewish community’s willingness to part with land deeply tied to their heritage in order to support the Amazigh way of life was a powerful reminder of the bonds that have long connected Morocco’s diverse peoples.
Today brought so many themes to life: the coexistence of Jews, Muslims, and Christians; the power of art and architecture to reflect deeper beliefs; and the enduring connections between history, economy, and community. Morocco continues to surprise and inspire, layer by layer.
