Morning Light, Coastal Wind: Tracing Essaouira’s Living Histories
By Rebecca Haile
The journey from Marrakech to Essaouira was long, bumpy, and totally worth it. I have to pause and mention just how beautiful the morning was in Morocco—there’s something special about it. As we drove, I watched the landscape shift between grassy hills and desert plains, villages popping in and out of view. We passed camels in enclosed spaces and kids who looked like they stayed up way too late playing soccer with their neighborhood friends, still yawning as the day began.
Our schedule shifted a bit when we made a stop along the way at the Association of Amazigh Women, who produce argan oil by hand. As we shuffled off the bus, the air was cool, the sky a bright clear blue, and the sun was out in full.
Inside the organization, we learned all about the process of extracting argan oil. It is a slow, detailed work that the women there have clearly mastered. At the end of the tour, we got to do a little taste test—starting with the 100% pure argan oil, which was simple and earthy. The argan honey had a deep, woody flavor, and the argan butter was sweeter and thicker than I expected—honestly better than peanut butter.
After the tour and some coffee from the association’s café, we continued on our journey to Essaouira. As we arrived and walked through Moulay El Hassan Square, its historical layers started to come into focus. Essaouira, originally known as Mogador, was established as a city by Sultan Mohammed III in 1764. Historically, the city served as a crucial trading post, but in the 18th century it was transformed into a strategic fishing port which it still serves as today. The square, located near the base of the 18th-century fortress, sits at the heart of this well-planned city, whose name in Arabic, Essaouira, reflects that very intention. In the 18th century, Jews made up about 40% of Essaouira’s population, and the city has long been recognized as a space of coexistence and commerce. Over time, especially in the 19th century, French interest in Moroccan Jewish communities — particularly in Jewish women, who were even painted by French artists — marked the beginning of a deeper imperial relationship. As part of the French imperial project, Moroccan Jews were encouraged to adopt French culture and language, leading to a French-speaking Jewish middle class by the time of the French protectorate. Moulay El Hassan Square holds traces of all these layers — colonial interest, Jewish presence, trade, and imperial ambition — making it more than just a public space, but a reflection of Essaouira’s unique multicultural past.
During our visit, we also stopped at a restored synagogue and learning space known as Bayt Dakira, or “House of Memory.” This synagogue is not only a place of worship but also a repository of Jewish heritage in Essaouira. Inside, we viewed multiple 17th-century Torahs and explored historical documents, including Jewish marriage contracts, which offered insight into community life and traditions.
3D Photo of Bayt Dakira by Simon Rabinovitch
When we concluded our tour of the medina, we grabbed lunch at Restaurant Des Rêves and met with Otmane Mazzihe and Ahmed Hottauz, representatives from Dar Souiri, part of the Association Essaouira-Mogador. Dar Souiri is a cultural center focused on preserving and promoting Essaouira’s diverse heritage, especially the long-standing relationship between Jewish and Muslim communities. The association was created to encourage dialogue, protect the city’s unique multicultural history, and celebrate its spirit of coexistence. One of their most powerful initiatives is the Andalusian-Atlantic Festival, held every fall, where Jewish and Muslim artists from around the world come together to perform. For both Jewish and Muslim Moroccans, it serves as a reminder of their intertwined past through art and cultural exchange.
