From the Mellah to the Madrasa
By Segenet Mulaw
We started our day walking through the Mellah, the old Jewish Qarter of Marrakesh, and visiting the Jewish Cemetery. Although Jewish communities have existed in Morocco for centuries, the first Jewish settlement in Marrakesh from Spain began in the 14th century and grew as the city developed into one of Morocco’s major urban centers. Following the expulsion from Spain in 1492, many Jewish exiles fled to Morocco, encouraged by the Saadian Sultan’s call for Jews to settle in the city. The Mellah, built in 1557 to protect its Jewish inhabitants, housed over 35,000 Jews and contained around 40 synagogues. The Jewish Cemetery, established in 1537, covers 52 hectares, making it the largest Jewish burial site in Morocco. The cemetery’s unique arrangement includes separate sections for men, women, and children, including a section where over 7,000 children who died of typhus are buried. Around the perimeter are graves of pious individuals, judges, and scholars believed to offer protection to those buried there. Among the buried are saints and devotees who taught Torah to the Jewish communities of Marrakesh and beyond, including notable figures such as R’ Hannania HaCohen, R’ Yitschak Deloya, R’ Moshe Haliwa, R’ Avraham Abitbul, R’ Shlomo Amar, R’ David Hazan, and R’ Avraham Azoulay. This site serves as a legacy of the once thriving Jewish community that existed within Morocco and of the plights of Jewish people throughout history.
Shrines and graves in the Jewish cemetery in Marrakesh. Photographs by Segenet Mulaw.
As we continued our exploration of the Mellah, we visited the Synagogue of the Deportees (Salat Al Azama), a significant landmark that also serves as a museum dedicated to the Jewish Quarter of Marrakesh. This dual-purpose site offers a unique window into the history and heritage of the Jewish community, preserving stories and artifacts that underscore their enduring presence and cultural contributions to the city. Walking through the exhibitions, we glimpsed into the past, witnessing the blend of indigenous Jewish communities and the influence of Sephardic Jewish culture that arrived following the expulsion from Spain in 1492. The museum exemplifies the dedication and effort of the remaining Jewish community to preserve and maintain a culture and practice that is often overlooked.
Photographs, sacred texts, and artifacts from Salat Al Azama. Photographs by Segenet Mulaw.
Next, we explored the Ben Youssef Madrasa, an Islamic school that further exemplifies the rich cultural and architectural heritage of Marrakesh. The school’s North African architecture, with its stunning Andalusian influences, showcases a blend of artistic traditions. Elaborate geometric patterns, vibrant tiles, and meticulously carved Arabic calligraphy adorn the walls, reflecting the intellectual and artistic flourishing of the region. The cedar wood, marble, and tile designs create a harmonious blend of aesthetics and function, each detail crafted perfectly and showcasing the influences of many cultures within the region.
Andalusi marble wash basin (left) and courtyard (center and right) in the Ben Youssef Madrasa. Photographs by Segent Mulaw.
Our day ended on an inspiring note with a lecture from a female entrepreneur who shared her experiences and insights. Today’s adventure showcased the vibrancy, resilience and dedication within Moroccan history and culture.