Faith, Food, and Memory: A Day of Exploration and Remembrance through Fes
By Maya Alexander
We started our last day in Fes with a delicious breakfast from the Riad before heading up to the terrace for a morning briefing with Professor Rabinovitch. He gave us an insightful overview of the Jewish community in Morocco, explaining how, despite centuries of history here, Jews were still sometimes seen as “other,” particularly in the countryside where they needed extra protection. This tension was reflected in how Moroccan Jews navigated their identity and how historical memory itself has been shaped by what he called “cultural amnesia,” the phenomenon of choosing to forget painful events to focus on the present and future. This discussion was a wonderful synopsis and setup to our visit to the Jewish cemetery and synagogue following his lecture.
Once we arrived at the cemetery, we quickly learned about its layered, intriguing history. Specifically, I learned about how it was relocated in 1879 when the monarchy decided to build a plaza on the original burial site, forcing a quick and incomplete reburial. It was humbling to see the patchwork of graves—some marked, some not. One story that stood out was that of Sol Hachuel, a young woman from Tangier who was executed when she was only seventeen in 1834 after she recanted her conversion to Islam and refused to marry the Moroccan king. Even now, people from around the world light candles at her grave, a testament to her courage.
We then ventured into the synagogue, built in the 17th century by Sephardic Jews who were expelled from Spain. In the synagogue we were able to see a variety of important religious artifacts like a Torah from the 17th century, as well as the mikvah; which is a ritual bath connected to spring water. Witnessing the mikvah in person was particularly powerful, as it underscored how water and purification are central to Judaism, a topic we had touched on in our pre-departure class. It was fascinating to see these ideas brought to life beyond the classroom. After chatting with Professor Lefkovitz, I also learned that the pulpit’s red cloth isn’t just decorative—it conceals the name of the rabbi at the time, a small, specific, intriguing detail I would never have noticed on my own.
After our insightful morning, we switched gears and were all excited as we headed to a cooking class, in the home of a local woman named Nour. She welcomed us with so much warmth and hospitality, and her home felt so alive, with everyone’s joyous laughing and endless conversations. She showed us how couscous is steamed and made, a process that takes three rounds, as well as how to prepare the vegetables that would top it. We learned about the sweet addition of raisins, fried almonds, and the traditional hole in the couscous to hold the meat and sauce. Watching Nour and her aunt work with such precision was amazing, and it was eye-opening to see how much time and care goes into a dish we’ve eaten countless times in Morocco. While the class was a long four hours—you could see everyone’s energy lift as the final product came together. The meal was delicious and deeply satisfying, a perfect way to have our last meal together in Fes.
After the cooking class, we had a free afternoon to ourselves for our last day in Fes. Some of us took the chance to wander through the Medina, picking up gifts for family and friends, while others went back to the Riad for a well-deserved nap and relaxation. I did a little of both—wandering through the markets for a bit, soaking in the vibrant energy and buying gifts, before heading back to pack and get ready for our next journey to Chefchaouen!
Today, energy is high, as we leave Fes and travel a few hours to Chefchaouen. Known as the “blue city” of Morocco, Chefchaouen is a picturesque mountain town known for its striking blue buildings and its breathtaking scenery. Nestled in between the Rif Mountains, Chefchaouen offers a unique experience with all the shades of blue, the colorful markets, and friendly locals. We are so excited to see where today leads us!
