Where Architecture Speaks and Stories Breathe: A Day in Casablanca
By Maleeha Wasim
Our third day of the trip began with an early morning breakfast followed by an 8 a.m. bus ride to one of the most famous cities in Morocco: Casablanca. During the drive, Professor Rabinovitch read us a chapter from The Caliph’s House by Tahir Shah about the exorcism of jinn in his home. I found myself completely engaged in the story from the very beginning. Hearing about Tahir Shah’s move from London to Casablanca, the mysterious guardians of the house, and the spiritual beliefs surrounding the home made the bus ride fly by. Knowing we were actually going to meet the author himself later that evening made the experience even more exciting. Before that, however, we made our first stop at one of the largest mosques in the world, Hassan II Mosque.
Story time with Professor Rabinovitch. Video by Maleeha Wasim.
Before arriving in Morocco, I had seen countless photos of the mosque online, but nothing could have prepared me for seeing it in person. Being raised in a Muslim family and having visited many mosques throughout my life, I genuinely did not think another mosque could leave me speechless the way this one did. The scale, detail, and craftsmanship were unbelievable. I was especially surprised to see so many non-Muslim visitors inside such a sacred religious space. The mosque almost felt like a bridge between cultures, religion, history, and art, which I thought was beautiful. Everyone around me seemed just as amazed and in awe of the mosque as I was, and it was clear how respectful people were of the space. It felt special watching people from completely different backgrounds admire the same beauty together.
Capturing the beauty of Hassan II Mosque, inside and out. Photo by Maleeha Wasim.
During our tour, our guide Aisha explained that King Hassan II wanted the mosque to preserve traditional Moroccan craftsmanship at a time when many people were moving toward more Westernized lifestyles. Every detail inside carried meaning. The cedar wood was brought from Fes, the massive chandeliers came from Italy, and the lotus-shaped fountains symbolized openness and acceptance toward all who entered. One of the most interesting things I learned was why non-Muslims are welcomed into the mosque. Aisha explained that before French colonialism, people often visited mosques simply to admire their beauty and craftsmanship. Hassan II wanted to bring back that openness and allow everyone to appreciate the artistry and spiritual beauty of the mosque.
Inside of the Hassan II Mosque showcasing the incredible cedar doors, the Italian chandeliers (the only non-Moroccan elements in the mosque) and the lotus-shaped fountains used for wudu by all. Photo by Maleeha Wasim.
After our tour, we headed to the hammam, which I initially thought would just be a relaxing spa experience. I quickly realized it was much more intense than that. Between the sauna, hair washing, and the strongest exfoliating scrub of my life, I have honestly never felt cleaner. At first, I was nervous because of how intimate the experience was, but by the end I found it strangely empowering. There was no sense of judgment or modesty among the women, just comfort and confidence in being themselves. It became one of the most unexpectedly meaningful parts of the day.
What made it even more meaningful was that during a lecture we had previously talked about ritual washing practices across different religions, so experiencing the hammam felt more meaningful than just going to a spa. It made me think about how cleansing can be both physical and spiritual, and how traditions surrounding water and purification appear in Islam, Christianity, and Judaism in different but connected ways.
A traditional Moroccan hammam experience followed by an amazing lunch. Photos by Maleeha Wasim.
After a quick lunch, we made our way to Dar Khalifa, the home of Tahir Shah himself. Walking through the house we had read about in class felt surreal. This was the same home where Shah moved with his pregnant wife and daughter, the same house supposedly filled with jinn, and the same place that inspired him to write The Caliph’s House. Listening to him speak about oral storytelling, language, memory, and Moroccan culture was fascinating. One thing he said that stayed with me was, “the longer you spend in Morocco, the less you understand.” At first it sounded confusing, but after spending the day in Casablanca, I think I finally understood what he meant. Morocco is layered with history, spirituality, contradictions, and stories that cannot simply be explained directly. You have to experience them.
Inside Dar Khalifa, where history and storytelling come alive. Photos by Maleeha Wasim.
By the end of the night, we returned to the hotel exhausted but carrying unforgettable memories from a city that somehow felt both deeply modern and deeply mystical at the same time.
