May 20th in the Atlas Mountains

Moroccan Cultural Pride and Hospitality: The Route of 1000 Kasbahs

By Chioma Izzuka

After a scenic 3.5 hour drive from Marrakesh through the High Atlas, we ultimately arrived at Aït Benhaddou– a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the midst of the Draa Valley. This stunning region of Morocco is also called the Route of 1000 Kasbahs, a middle-ground between the Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert. This name refers to the high concentration of ancient fortresses (Kasbahs) and fortified villages (Ksars) present in the valley. Our tour guide, Hassan, explained that Ksars were predominantly built on the slopes of mountains for security. Historically, both residents and visitors of the village would gather their valuables in a single location at the peak of the mountain, surrounded by guards for added safety. The steadfast village of Aït Benhaddou was fully constructed using native materials, such as red clay, palm wood, and straw. This specific Ksar was an 11th century village, an ancient stopping point for caravan traders on the 52 day journey from Timbuktu to Marrakesh. The village fueled the success of trans-Saharan trade from behind the scenes, offering merchants a well-deserved rest after long weeks of travel. Today, the small community sustains itself through the cultivation of native goods like date palms and the prevalence of film tourism. Scenes from Gladiator 2, Game of Thrones, Prison Break, and TV shows like Outer Banks were filmed in Aït Benhaddou, making it one of the most iconic filming locations.

Journey to and though Ait Benhaddou. Photos by Chioma Izzuka.

Following the tour of Aït Benhaddou, we were lucky enough to be welcomed into the home of a local Amazigh family. We were first offered traditional Moroccan mint tea, peanuts, and assorted cookies and crackers. The family then showed us the proper technique of making the tea by pouring boiling water over sugar, mint, and green tea leaves. We learned that the classic method of pouring the tea from a height aerates and cools the tea, reflecting the warmth and generosity of Moroccans that we have grown to treasure.

After the tea ceremony, we were served couscous with eggplant, carrots, turnips, and tajine chicken. Traditionally, this large meal is made on Fridays due to the long cooking process, but the family was gracious enough to take time out of their week and truly exhibit the value they place on hospitality. Coming from a Slavic family, the significance of sharing a meal with guests resonated with my own heritage. Like in Moroccan culture, the tradition of drinking tea with guests is a necessity. A guest is typically expected to bring a gift when visiting another person’s home, often a sweet pastry or box of chocolates, and it is common to sit together and share this gift over tea. Both hospitality and being a good guest are fundamental values, and the respect between guest and host is commemorated through this exchange. It is beautiful to see the connection that sharing a meal brings, even across continents and language barriers. After we finished the amazing meal, the family led us out of the house and also gave us the opportunity to see their chickens and livestock, including the well-fed goat that will be used to celebrate the Islamic holiday of Eid Al-Adha next week.

After we expressed our gratitude to the family, we hopped back on the bus and headed to Atlas Studios, an extremely popular filmmaking site in Ouarzazate. The interaction of Hollywood with local communities is prominent, with many Moroccans being cast as extras in these films. The influx of international cinema has also fueled growth in local businesses, such as hotels and markets. Traveling through the sets of Ancient Rome, Greece, and Egypt, we were able to experience iconic settings of movies such as Gladiator, The Passion of the Christ, Kundun, and The Mummy. While exploring the filming locations, we gained valuable insight into the art of cinematography, and learned the versatility of the sets and some techniques used by filmmakers to make props and settings look as authentic as possible. For example, our talented tour guide explained how many directors use camera work to create more space on small sets, and utilize green screens and angles to enhance their filmmaking. Our group then had the awesome opportunity to film our own movie clip on one of the sets, as shown below. After our long adventure in the desert, we all headed back to the bus to return and spend one last wonderful night in Marrakesh.

Atlas Studios and various movie sets. Photos by Chioma Izzuka.

Movie clip at Atlas Studios.


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